much gratitude
慌ただしい日々の合間、ちょっとリフレッシュしに…。仕事前の早起きmorning surfing。 さすがに、11月末の初冬の砂浜はサーフボード持って裸足でペタペタ歩くと冷た〜〜い！で海に入ると、海あったか〜〜イ！温泉みたい。今日の波は私にちょうどいいサイズの波。パドリングしながら沖にでる途中、最初小雨で薄曇りだった空に太陽がでてきて海がキラキラ輝き初めました。朝日でキラキラの海に入っているのは、本当に心が洗われます。初冬の冷たい風と海のあたたかさを感じながらの波待ちをしてるときに、幸せを感じました。うねりが沖からみえてくると、いざ、パドリング開始！波と自分のスピードとあわさる瞬間、魔法の時間がやってきて、すーっとボードが進んでいきます。この瞬間は『今』の『今』だけです。ホントウに『今』の『今』。今日も自然に遊んでもらいました。ありがとう。
things have been hectic lately... so i went to surf this morning for freshening up before i work. i actually felt beneath my barefoot cold sands in the early winter beach , but seawater was still warm, like hot spring water! i paddled out through the sea surface glitter. it was very beautiful... i felt so happy! once i catch the perfect moment with a wave, i am truly in the moment. i am not thinking about anything else. this is really cleansing effect! nature always teach me some lessons about my life.
much gratitude
things have been hectic lately... so i went to surf this morning for freshening up before i work. i actually felt beneath my barefoot cold sands in the early winter beach , but seawater was still warm, like hot spring water! i paddled out through the sea surface glitter. it was very beautiful... i felt so happy! once i catch the perfect moment with a wave, i am truly in the moment. i am not thinking about anything else. this is really cleansing effect! nature always teach me some lessons about my life.
much gratitude
